The Italian luxury fashion label Prada has faced criticism in India for introducing leather flat sandals, which are priced at around Rs 1.2 lakh, that bear a striking resemblance to traditional Kolhapuri chappals. These sandals were recently presented at Prada’s runway show in Milan. The similarity of the product to the renowned Indian footwear has ignited discussions regarding cultural appropriation and intellectual property rights, especially since Kolhapuri chappals were granted Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2019, acknowledging their cultural and regional importance. Senior lawyer Ameet Naik has stated that a GI infringement case may not hold up. He remarked, “Prada has taken the position that these are merely flat sandals and that there is no misrepresentation. While a passing off action could be considered, it may not constitute a robust case of infringement. Prada could have sidestepped this controversy by explicitly recognizing the Indian inspiration behind the design,” he noted.
This situation has elicited responses from various government officials and industry organizations. A senior representative from the Leather Industries Corporation mentioned that Prada had not reached out to the corporation and indicated that a thorough investigation would be undertaken, with appropriate actions to follow. Prakash Abitkar, the Guardian Minister of Kolhapur, stated, “The global showcase of Kolhapuri-style leatherwork could be advantageous for local artisans.” He further mentioned that the state is initiating a cluster scheme aimed at promoting the leather industry within the region. Madhuri Misal, the Minister of State for Social Justice in Maharashtra, emphasized that the issue extends beyond chappals to include bags and other leather accessories. She stated, “The government is committed to enhancing the livelihoods of traditional cobblers through skill development and financial support, and that international exposure could result in improved prices for their craftsmanship.” Kolhapuri chappals, celebrated for their artisanal leather craftsmanship, are traditionally produced by artisan communities in Maharashtra and have been utilized since at least the 12th century. Although no legal proceedings have been initiated thus far, the situation has sparked a national discussion around the recognition and protection of traditional Indian designs in global markets.
